It is well if attached to a piece of cork bark and suspended from the ceiling of the greenhouse or garden room. First wrap sphagnum moss around the roots, then use plastic-covered wire to bind the plant and moss to the bark. From then on periodic immersion of the plant and bark in a bucket of water seems to be all they require to succeed. In fact, Tillandsia usneoides (Spanish moss) will grow perfectly well without compost or moss, simply by draping it over any convenient support. The thread-like fOliage is silver-grey in colour and can add considerably to the interest and appearance of a plant collection.

T. cyanea is quite different. It has recurving green foliage, and in time the most exotic bracts appear, pink in colour. From the sides of these bracts petunia-blue flowers are produced in summer over a period of several weeks. To increase plants the clumps are teased apart and individual pieces are planted in peaty compbst and subsequently into compost similar to that suggested for bromeliads.

Giving a plant an interesting common name can make a deal of difference when the time comes for the nurseryman to dispose of it. This being so it is odd that the commercial grower does not give more space to producing the pick-a-back plant.

P. elegans is not an easy plant either to grow or acquire but, as the name-suggests, it is one of the most attractive of the ptitely green plants.

Iron deficiency is a problem that will result in leaves taking on a hard, yellow appearance; sequestrene of iron used according to the manufacturer’s directions will help to combat this. With larger plants an old remedy was to place a piece of sulphate of iron on top of the soil, a little of which was, watered into the compost to keep the plant in good condition.

Do this by spraying regularly for by leaning the plant over the support more heavily with a watering-can - if the plant is not tilted the surplus watermill run into the compost and make it much too wet. The aim when watering should be to keep the compost moist, but not permanently saturated.

It will tolerate much less agreeable conditions than the majority of philodendrons, but like all these plants the better the conditions the better the plant will respond. It will certainly do better in moist conditions at a temperature in the region of i8C. (65F.) than it will in a dry environment at lower temperatures.

Phalaenopsis are the most popular of the warm-growing orchids. They have thick, broad leaves, often attractively mottled in silver or grey. They are monopodial, without pseudobulbs; their leaves grow from a basal rhizome, and usually number between three and six at any time. Their roots are also attractive, being flattened, silvery grey and extensive. Often these roots grow outside the pot and adhere strongly to the bench. The flower-spikes - two or three a year on a mature plant - come from near the base, immediately above a lower leaf. There is no strict flowering season.

The two lateral sepals appear, usually fused into one and mostly out of sight, behind the pouch. Most produce a single flower. The modern hybrids have one large flower up to 6 in (IS cm) across. Some groups of species are two, three or multi- flowered on one stem. Many of the species are still plentiful and usually more dainty than the hybrids.

The plants are evergreen, and do not produce pseudobulbs. New growths are made each year from the base of the previous growth. The flower stem comes from the centre of a mature growth.

The monopodials are a large group of pscudobulbless orchids which grow continuously from a stem. These plants usually consist of a single upright rhizome with the leaves being produced from the centre. As each new leaf is formed and the plant progresses upwards, the effect is of a single stern bearing leaves from alternative sides.

They can be brittle and are all too easily cracked if roughly handled. Many of these species grow wild epiphytically in the lower branches of trees, or lithophytically on rocks, and are often subjected to periods of drought when their fleshy leaves hold sufficient reserves of water to sustain them. The harsh terrain will take its toll on the wild population whose leaves suffer as a result. The cultivated plant, on other hand, has never looked so good, watered evenly and regularly throughout the year.

With no enforced rest and no tilting stress to the plant, they become the most beautiful specimens under care, exhibiting their luxuriant clean foliage which is a joy in itself. The flowering of such plants comes as an extra bonus! The green-leaved species which originate from the far east can be grown in a cool, shady situation. The larger, more fleshy varieties from the Philippine Islands and Malaysian Peninsula require warmer conditions, also with good shade. Very few pests will attack these orchids, which are among the cleanest to grow.

Cymbidiums are the most widely grown orchids in cultivation. They are also the largest among the widely cultivated types. Their pseudobulbs are large, up to the size of an orange, short and stout. They are sheathed by the bases of the evergreen leaves, which remain intact after the leaves have been shed.

The leaves are long, up to 2 ft (60 cm) and about 1-2 in (2.5-5 cm) wide. The flower spikes are stout and can grow up to 3 or 4 ft (90 -120 cm) carrying a dozen or more heavily textured flowers 4 in across. These last in perfection for up to eight weeks. They are produced in the late summer and grow throughout the winter to bloom any time from November to May, with the majority flowering in the spring. A large plant may produce up to six flower spikes.

Also from this base from inside one of these lower leaves, comes the flower spike. They have varying flowering seasons, and the flower spike is produced upon completion of the season’s pseudobulb. Usually no more than one or two spikes can be expected in a season. The flowers have sepals and petals of equal size, the lip nicely balanced with colourings different from the rest of the flower.

The dendrobiums comprise an enormous genus and their growth is extremely varied to suit all environments. A somewhat unusual species is D. cunninghami, which is adapted to the temperate conditions of New Zealand.

Thus the leaves become all important; if these were to be lost the plant would find it very difficult to survive long enough to regrow from the stem. Although beautifully adapted to prevent overheating, this plant would suffer severely from cold, and could not withstand exposure to frost. It is known, however, that some terete-leaved orchids are capable of withstanding frost, and some often do, in their natural environment. Brassavola nodosa is such a plant.

These beautiful orchids do not adapt to cultivation and tend to die even with specialised culture within a few years. Culture in a bell jar is often successful for a while. There are numerous miniature orchids found throughout the world -which deserve more attention. They are every bit as beautiful as their Larger counterparts although a magnifying glass is helpful to see this.

The dorsal sepal, petals and lip are very much smaller and this would be an unassuming flower if it were not for the sepals which extend for over 7 in (15 cm). The cirrhopetalums are related to a much larger genus, the bulipphyllurns, and are widely distributed throughout the tropical world.

Of all the wonders in the plant kingdom it was those early importations of orchids which created the greatest stir and caused sensations. Nothing like the large, flamboyant flowers had ever been seen before.

It is a primary hybrid, both parents being species. Primary hybrids are very successful in orchids, and are often the first stage in a very long line of breeding. In the primary hybrid we see the combining of those qualities present in both parent species, and retaining all the charm and natural beauty of the wild flowers.

Not all species will readily breed in cultivation and the raising of seedlings is often difficult under artificial conditions. Hybrids often have a wider tolerance of artificial conditions and are a much better proposition for the beginner.

Of the two common names. money plant seems to be by far the most suitable as far as the plant supplier is concerned. On a visit to our nursery some years ago, a charming Indian girl, with a surprising knoWiledge of plants, informed us that in her country the saying went that you would never be without money if you had a scindapsus plant in the house - a good reason for us all to have one.

The variegated form Sasifraga sarinentosa tricolor is much less vigorous, requiring more careful handling, and will certainly need the higher temperatures indicated above. It will also do better if confined to small pots, as growth is not sufficiently active to justify planting them in hanging baskets as suggested above for the green form.

A moist moss support for plants to climb and get their roots into will greatly improve their performance. Potting compost should be peaty- in its composition and the inclusion of a little good leafmould will be an advantage if it can be obtained.

Pet urns can be the best way to remember and honor the loss of your pet. You can often find them at a veterinarians office, a pet funeral home some specialized pet stores and online. With such a large selection available of pet cremation urns it can be difficult picking the perfect one to remember and honor your pet. With all the materials, styles and colors available it can be difficult making the perfect choice.

When you lose a pet the loss is often sudden and making decisions on burial or cremation can be a difficult undertaking but even having a pet memorial that will house mementos, photos and keepsakes can often help with the pain. Pet urns come in many styles such as burial, memorial even biodegradable depending on if it will be for display or buried. The most common materials are stone, metal, wood or ceramic. Often metals will be brass, bronze or copper. The use of wood is common and the list of woods used is too many to list here. Ceramic pet urns are very common and are often made into vase shapes or figurines or something a little more personal.

Caring for orchids have you scared? OK - maybe scared is a bit much. But for those of you that are like me, and truly love your orchids - you want to make sure you do everything right. So, here are some tips to help you get off to a good start. First off - timing matters when learning to care for orchids. Make sure you water your orchid in the morning and remember - keep the leaves dry. Else you may find crown rot and that is not a good way to take care of orchids.

Ideally you can use rainwater for watering your orchids - really it is the best way to care for orchids. However, in some places, collecting rain water is illegal (but maybe a small bowl would be ok!). When you are trying to really care for orchids - and rainwater isn’t available - well water is a close second. Unfortunately, many of us do not have access to either - that puts us in need for bottled water. Tap water is just not good for taking care of orchids.