Scale insects are small, limpet-like insects that cling to plant stems, underneath leaves, and in particularly had attacks may also he found on leaf surfaces. The adults of these are dark brown in colour while the young ones are flesh coloured.

Greenfly are comparatively easy to eradicate, there being many brands of insecticide on the market that will quickly eliminate them. Larger plants can only be treated by thoroughly spraying the entire plant and repeating the process as necessary. Smaller plants, on the other hand, can be dealt with equally effectively by plunging the plant in a bucketful of prepared insecticide.

Do this by wrapping a piece of polythene around the pot so that the soil cannot spill out, then dip the plant in the insecticide and swish it around to ensure that all leaves and stems have been well saturated, not forgetting first to don rubber gloves. Keep the plant out of the sun and allow the foliage to dry naturally before replacing in position.

Adiantum is widely distributed in South America, Australia and New Zealand. The suitable temperature for the plat is from10 to 18C. (50 to 65F.). It is moderately easy to grow.

When introducing new plants to a collection, whether they he gifts or purchased, a brief inspection should be made for the presence of pests, as these are very much easier to avoid than to eradicate.

Like fertilisers, all insecticides should be used as instructed, as that seemingly harmless little extra may well cause leaf scorch and other damage. Pests should be treated as soon as they are seen, as any delay will make their control just that much more difficult.

A shaded position is preferred. Water freely other than during the winter months when permanently wet compost can be harmful. Propagate by division. A sharp knife will be required to cut through the matted roots of older clumps. When split, the smaller clumps should be potted up individually and watered in. Less congested clumps can be teased apart into smaller, or even individual, pieces if a large number of new plants are required.

Propagating houseplants through cuttings is not the sort of propagating method that appeals to the professional, but it does have many advantages for the amateur. A final point: when cutting the stems of crotons care should be taken to ensure that the sap does not get onto one’s clothing – from personal experience I have regrettably learned that the stain is impossible.

The rubber plant, Ficus eldstica robusta, may be propagated in a number of ways, leaf and top cuttings being the most practical. Cuttings are best taken while plants are dormant, usually between the months of November and March. The propagating bed temperature requires to he rather high, something in excess 42 C for best results. Very soft cuttings with large leaves rarely do, well; firm cuttings with some three or four leaves attached do very much better. (With any form of top cutting it is important to ensure that there are at least two firm leaves on the stem, otherwise it will all be a waste of time).

There are a great number of easy and difficult indoor plants that may be increased in very much the same way as the hederas, or ivies. For the more difficult plants a generally higher temperature will he required to encourage root development.

Only two aechtheas are generally available and one of those, Aechrnea fulgens, only infrequently as supplies are very limited. A. rhodocyanea is the more attractive and has, in recent years, become an important house plant, particularly in the higher price range. A. fulgens is much the smaller of the two, and has burgundy-coloured foliage. The dark blue flowers are short lived, but the bract that emerges from the centre of the rosette will remain colourful for two months or more.

Aglaonemas are mostly of compact habit and deserve to be more popular than they are at present. Specialist nurseries list several varieties, but on the whole they tend to be neglected. A few, such as the species Aglaonema commutatum, have rather dull foliage, so the hick of interest may be quite understandable.

When buying plants in flower it is best to select those that arc more backward in order to get the longest life possible from them. The ideal stage is when the pink bract is a little above the water level in the urn. Plants that have developed to the stage where the blue flowers in the otherwise pink bract are fully open should be avoided.

In spite of the vast number of plants which are much more attractive in appearance a surprising number of green-leaved ivies still retain their popularity. The fact that there are so many other colourful plants on the market is in all probability a very good reason for the continued appeal of the green varieties, as they are useful for toning down the colouring when planted arrangements are being prepared. H. Chicago has simple-shaped green leaves with no frills whatsoever. Green Ripple has slightly larger green leaves with prominent veins which are the main attraction.

Red spider is often responsible for leaves gradually turning brown and shrivelling from the outer edge; inspection of the undersides should be made when such leaves are noticed. II. canariensis (II. Claire de Marengo), H. maculara and H. Goldleaf are the larger sorts that one is most likely to meet. These are essentially more upright plants and should be grown on canes or against a wall for support.

Of these. Glacier is easily the toughest and is an excellent subject for finishing off the front of borders indoors and out, and in particular for use along the edge of outdoor window boxes.

Surprisingly enough anthuriums are, on the whole, not too difficult to raise from seed provided it is fresh and sown in a temperature approaching 27C. (80F.). When large enough to handle the seedlings should be potted not into soil, but into a mixture of coarse pear and rough sphagnum moss; to help things along try soaking-the moss in liquid fertiliser at standard strength for 24 hours before using.

In fact, the hotter the conditions the better, provided a moist atmosphere can be maintained by regular damping of the greenhouse or garden room. The plant grower who can spare the greenhouse only a few minutes’ attention befbre departing for work in the morning should not expect the sort of results that can be achieved by the man who can devote his time to their care. Nevertheless, much can he done with the enlistment of a willing wife who is at home all day and can be entrusted with the task of providing the essential humidity by damping around heating pipes, paths and such like.

There have been many hybrids of Hibiscus rosasinensis produced in recent years, many of them really excellent plants that ought to become popular as they become more generally available. There are single and double forms in shades of red, pink, lemon and yellow. Individual flowers last for little more than one day and this, to some, is a disappointment when plants are first purchased. But the disappointment is soon forgotten when it is realised that what flowers may lack in staying power they more than make up for in numbers, as on healthy plants flowers are produced continuously throughout the summer.

In good growing conditions plants can be very invasive, so will need hard pruning any time after flowering. Mealy bugs can be troublesome pests should they find their way in between the twining stems of the plant, so a careful watch must be kept in order to eradicate them before they have a chance to get established.

During the winter one can continue to water plants and they will retain their leaves (most of them, anyway!) or they can be dried mkt and kept in a warm room or garden room until the following early spring, when they can be watered and started into growth again.

The only pruning necessary is light trimming of longer shoots. Cuttings made from these trimmings will not be difficult to root in warm, close conditions, but they will take a long time to make plants of any size. Given good heat and moist conditions it is also reasonably easy to germinate seed. The fruits are about the size of small tangerine oranges, but rather bitter tasting if you have sufficient oranges to spare they do make excellent marmalade.

To give some idea of the amount of fruit that is possible on one plant, one recent writer claimed that his C. mitis had over two hundred oranges on the branches, a spectacular result considering that it was the plant’s third year in a living-room window position. Scale insects can he a messy and troublesome pest on this plant, so keep a watchful eye for their presence, particularly along the main stem.

The common name gives a clue to Codiaeum; and it is indeed a plant of many colours that outshines every other species in foliage colouring. For years now we have been advised that codiacum is the proper name, but the old one of croton is still favourite with both nurseryman and general public.

Not particularly important plants, the iresines are interesting because of their foliage which is often a deep, blood-red colour. Given reasonable light and standard house plant treatment they are not difficult, and are better grown as fresh plants from cuttings each year – cuttings can be taken at almost any time. The heavier John lnnes type compost will be more suitable than the lighter compost advised for the majority of indoor plants.

However one should go about caring for them it is essential that they enjoy a light and cool position, moist compost while in active growth, and regular feeding.

Cuttings of non-flowering shoots, or shoots that have had the flowers removed, may he rooted at almost any time; firm cuttings in peaty compost will present no problems if the standard propagating suggestions are followed. keep a watchful eve for red spider on the underside of leaves and treat accordingly.

Laurus Nobilis hardy, evergreen shrubs are much sought after as terrace plants when grown as pyramids, or mop-headed standards. By the time they have reached standard size the plants will be well established in stout tubs and will need regular watering and feeding during the summer months.

All over the world there must be millions of liens grown annually for indoor decoration, ranging from the tiny creeping fig, Ficus pumila, to majestic trees of F. benjamina and F. benghalensis. None of them flower when grown in pots, so the attraction is entirely in the foliage. Ficus elastica robusta is the now greatly improved ordinary rubber plant which is produced in vast quantities annually.

All three will require a moist, warm, shaded environment in which to grow, and even then will not be easy to manage. Indoors they would be best suited to the atmosphere created in a bottle garden; or enclosed glass case. (In Victorian times these were referred to as Ward ian Cases, named after Nathaniel Ward who invented them in effect they were miniature indoor greenhouses where one could grow plants of a delicate nature).